Cruise to Jirnsum. Pottle visits Grou. Another Celebration.

We arrived at De Boarnstream following another sunny and gentle cruise down the Prinses Margriet Kanal, past Grou before turning to starboard and the jachthaven. At 1545 hours we were in a nice berth and after sorting lines and power, the crew jumped off and went to the office to pay harbour dues and to pay for the oil filters we'd ordered from Wierd Kramer at De Boarnstream. Thank you, Wierd, for all your help! It was good to be back and good to enjoy a long chat about the happenings since we were there last. Nice to hear they're so busy with a lot of orders and boats in build. 

It's a lot sunnier today than the last time we were here in June!

And Pirramimma is in a nice sunny berth in one of the passentenplaats.

Fresh provisions were at an all time low causing the galley slave to become fractious. At 1700hours we jumped into Pottle and headed upstream past Jirmsum and made our way to Grou. There was supposed to be a supermarket in Jirnsum but the online info for opening hours showed we'd not make it time. 

The trip to Grou was lovely - such an attractive little waterway! The Jumbo in Grou also benefits from its own dinghy park; free for one hour. The rear of the store faces onto the dinghy park and water - if you dawdle, it's about a 2 minute walk around to the front of the store. Does it get any better than that? Yes, it does because then all you have to do is push the trolley back to the boat, unload all your purchases before taking the trolley back and collecting the deposit. Perfect! 

The other thing we needed was more fuel for Pottle. We only had a scant 1/4 tank left and we wanted to do a lot more exploring whilst staying at De Boarnstream. Back into Pottle and onto the big passentenhaven in Grou. However, it was now nearly 1830 hours so the fuel berth was closed and the havenmeester was not to be found. We couldn't see any other fuel berths around the town or haven areas. So back to Jumbo to inquire if there was a fuel station around. YES! There's only 1 fuel station in Grou apparently, but the good news is that it's only a couple of hundred yards from the front of the Jumbo store. We arrived back at Pirramimma at 1940 hours and the galley slave swung into action again. We sat on deck whilst the good old Remoska cooked a delicious meal of chicken, sweet potatoes and red peppers which we ate on deck an hour later. 

Having decided to stay a further two nights at DeBoarnstream, we jumped into Pottle next morning for a visit into Jirnsum itself. And to shop at the Accent supermarket. We'd noticed last night that there was a small FOC dinghy park just in front of the building. Again, it was gloriously sunny and a very hot day. 

It's a shame as the Accent supermarket is not only closed down, but all the interior shop fittings have been completely stripped out. We decided to take a walking tour of the village but there was nothing really to see, sadly. The village has been 'bypassed' by a new road, so as is often the case, the little village has "died". But please don't let that stop you from cruising down this little waterway; especially if you have a dinghy or are able to cruise under the low bridges. It really is delightful.

However, the jachthaven had a gentle 'buzz' going on with all the boats that were there. It's a very friendly place and it was lovely to see all the folk chatting and laughing together.  We had a busy afternoon onboard, catching up on chores. Richard fitted a new oil filter in the generator whilst crew attempted to catch up on the accumulated washing mountain. During the day, the temperature had reached 35C in the main saloon on Pirramimma. Late afternoon shadows provided some cooling moments for dogs and humans to enjoy.

Looking the other way, we could enjoy the soothing, gentle sounds of the wind through the reeds and trees. Utterly peaceful and very relaxing.

The next morning, the crew continued her ongoing (but hitherto unmentioned) battle with the spiders. Daily tasks include cleaning and drying all the topsides to take advantage of the morning dew on deck. Every night, the spiders enjoy pooping on the cream cabin top and currently appear to be winning the fight. Crew is miffed. 

Whilst Richard worked on cleaning some of the canopy covers, further attempts to conquer the washing mountain take place. This time crew cheats by using the large commercial washing machine and dryer in the haven facilities. Sorted.  It's 31C in the saloon and we jump into Pottle to find an ice-cream or two. We end up finding some in the little shop at the RFU haven next door. Next we zip across the Prinses Margriet Kanal to take a look at the hotel/restaurant close by. It's jam-packed with folk enjoying lunch and cooling drinks by the water's edge. We add it to our list of places to try when we haven't just eaten an ice-cream. We continued along past and cruised the peaceful back-waters nearby; poking Pottle's nose into as many little hidden havens of peace as we could.

The galley slave decided it was the perfect evening for a barbecue - we sat on deck to eat our meal, enjoying our last evening at Jirnsum for this trip. Later that evening, we watched as these two hot-air balloons floated overhead. 

Next morning we had quite a few farewells to say as we'd made new friends in the jachthaven. Lots of smiles and good wishes with the hopes of meeting up on another occasion. Engine on at 1130 hours and we reversed gently out of our berth. Turned to starboard again onto the Prinses Margriet Kanal, under the huge railway bridge and south to Lemmer. 

We arrived back at our home berth at 1445 hours: it was busy on the waterways and busy in town. It's breezier and cooler too. This weekend we have a birthday onboard to celebrate. Galley slave was asked to prepare the smoked salmon and avocado starter we'd enjoyed for our anniversary and to marinate some king prawns to be BBQ-d. Apparently the birthday person enjoyed their day and also the meal. After dinner, we sat on deck sipping Cointreau on ice, again a perfect evening. 

Next day we headed back to our favourite little chandlery and purchased more bit and pieces for Pirramimma. Most of it to replace/upgrade existing items onboard. A couple of fenders, chain, 'nuts n bolts' various. Then we detoured to our new jachthaven for next year as we have recently been allocated a specific berth there. We know exactly where it is and don't really need to check it, but do so anyway. Who can resist; certainly not us! Additionally, we've had a new insurance broker recommended to us, so we whizz into town for a chat and to ask for a quote. 

Our last couple of evenings onboard means the galley slave needs to clean out all the perishable food from the fridge and freezer. Satay pork steaks and organic/bio sausages combined brilliantly with basmati rice, greek yoghurt, satay sauce and trimmings various. Serendipity.

Final orders onboard include the usual things: cleaning, packing, loading the car. Afterwards, we sat on deck for the last time on this trip. We drank a toast to our lovely boat and reflected on this, our longest time so far on Pirramimma; our longest cruise to date on her. She'd performed beautifully and we'd been extremely comfortable. We'd made some lovely new friends and caught up with 'old' ones. We are so very lucky and hugely grateful for all these blessings. And now, there's the next trip to look forward to. 
See you soon!
Vxx

Cruise back to Friesland. The Van Starkenborgh Kanal, another Marrekrite nature mooring.

Monday morning dawns with bright, bright sunshine and the gentlest of breezes. The other two boats on our nature mooring have already left to continue their journeys in a westerly direction. Engine on at 0950 hours, we cast off our lines and left the pontoon using a stern spring. From here, all the remaining brug had to be called on VHF channel 85 to request opening. It was all very easy and very quick too. 

We turned to starboard onto the Van Starkenborgh Kanal at 1110 hours. There were quite a few commercial barges on the kanal but only a handful of other boats - mostly charter boats. Again, the scenery changed and we could almost have been cruising in France.

We shared the Gaarkeuken schutsluis with a commercial and 2 other cruisers. It was sweltering hot on the foredeck, and the light bouncing off Pirramimma and the water was blindingly bright. Silly me; no hat or sunglasses with me when I went forward to lasso the bollard. The skipper's view forward...

… and aft…

Off we go…

Immaculately tended farmland - the sweet aroma of freshly cut hay was wonderful!

 Irresistible isn't it! A summer idyll. 

Once we'd cruised through the Stroobos swing brug and moved back onto the Prinses Margriet Kanal, water traffic increased dramatically as we cruised ever closer towards the Sneekermeer. The sun was shining and everyone was enjoying their holiday time on the water. 

Eventually, we turned to port down the Lange Sleatten and made our way towards the town of Earnewâld, looking for a nature mooring for the night. No chance! All mooring places were absolutely rammed with boats and folk taking advantage of the weather. We turned to starboard again onto the Folkertssleat, then once again to starboard, cruising past the grassy bank on the little island we moored at two weeks ago at the start of our journey. And again, there was no space left for us against the grassy bank. Happily, the last pontoon had a few spaces and we spun around 180 to take the second last space from the end of the pontoon. 

We got chatting to the gentleman in the boat behind us. He was utterly charming and gave us a lot of information about cruising around the Alde Feanen National Park. Thank you, sir! He also said he was about to leave and suggested we walk Pirramimma back into his space afterwards. This we did after waving our goodbyes and, as a consequence, we enjoyed an uninterrupted view of the Prinses Margriet Kanal and the surrounding countryside. 

This photo was taken at 2047 hours, local time. Recreational water traffic has nearly ceased. Only the large commercials moved by after this lone boat heading south.  It was still warm enough to have all the covers up on the aft deck. Bliss.

 I was woken at 0500 hours next morning to the sound of torrential rain. Leapt out of bed to shut a couple of side portholes I'd left open to catch the breeze through the galley area. Fortunately, that's all they caught!  Rain completely stopped play for 10 solid hours after that. We stayed put. Eventually the rain passed by and we enjoyed another sunshine evening. Our view forward at 1924 hours. You can probably see how busy it is further down by the grassed bank. 

Next morning dawned bright and sunny. After a breakfast of strawberries, red currants, greek yoghurt and acacia honey …

… we jumped into Pottle and headed off to take a good look at Earnewâld. There are some truly lovely holiday homes. And a big selection of rental holiday homes, camping and caravan places to suit all needs and budgets. It was amazingly busy but everything was immaculately clean and tidy, well organised and generally extremely civilised. A useful Spar supermarket, various eating places, a smart looking hotel and restaurant. The Spar has free dinghy parking dedicated for those who need to shop there. There are several passenten and jachthavens with the usual water, electricity services available. Also a fuel berth and one of the jachthavens has foul water pump out facilities. 

Wikipedia states the Alde Feanen National Park is 25 km2 or just under 10 sq miles in size with at least 450 plant species and 100 bird species to be found. The park contains morasses, forest, lakes, peat and meadows. There's a visitor centre in Earnewâld and also a stork breeding centre nearby. We loved that it was actively enjoyed by so many folk; all of whom respect the National Park and keep to their part of the bargain; viz they keep the place clean and tidy whilst leaving the bird life in peace. 

We lunched onboard and at 1415 hours started the engine, let go our lines and rejoined the Prinses Margriet Kanal on our way back to Jirnsum, De Boarnstream and our oil filters. 
Vxx

Remote and beautiful Reitdiep. Heading east towards the Van Starkenborgh Kanal.

Engine on at 0935 hours. We'd refilled the fresh water tank and I'd taken all the rubbish to the recycling points. It's another gloriously sunny morning. Richard manually pushes Pirramimma off from the pontoon and we gently glide away.  I had the helm and we left the marina in a southerly direction before veering eastwards. 

The sun was so bright on the water I found it very hard to make out the shape of the channel markers, let alone the colours, and had to ask Richard for help. There are quite a few channels and a couple of cardinal marks to avoid. Once I was settled and happy, I could also enjoy the view. This is such beautiful scenery. Firstly, it was like an African savannah; wide expanses of grassland. And there were yachts and cruisers anchored just out of the main channel - no doubt their crews were breakfasting on deck and enjoying the Sunday sunshine.

Long horn cattle and wild horses were grazing the banks and standing in the water, cooling off from the already hot day. I certainly didn't expect anything like this!

Photo: V Hayes

The photo below shows the type of nature moorings in this area. Most, but not all, had no access to the land. All were in lovely locations and had good strong pontoons.  This is the view aft and looking west.

A slightly wider angle as we head further away and cruise eastwards towards Zoutkamp and the Reitdiep. You can hopefully see what a large expanse of inland water this is. 

Still a lot of reflected 'glare' from the sun on the water. But crew has her bearings and is happy. 

Photo: V Hayes

The channel continues to wind its way around to the east and is beginning to narrow a little. As you can also see, there are a lot of these moorings on this waterway. 

At this next turn to starboard, the channel becomes much narrower. Still more cattle enjoying the cool water.

The sluis at Zoutkamp usually stands open but the brug does not and we had about a 20 minute wait as road traffic came and went over the brug. In due course, we and 4 other boats motored through and continued on our way.  There's quite a sweet little marina at Zoutkamp and we marked it down for future visits. Again, the scenery changed. This time to lush-looking pastures and substantial farming operations. Far less cattle and more arable in this area. 

Another brug and a small (open) keersluis at Electra. We were now actively looking for a mooring place to stop and have some lunch.  But the moorings have changed too! They're much smaller and most have only room for one boat. Everyone else is also thinking about lunch and there was 'no room at the inn' for us.  The galley slave swung into action anyway and we had lunch on the move.

Finally, past the Aduarderzijl keersluis, we found a space just large enough for us between two other boats. Skipper skilfully slid the boat into place, the crew made fast the lines - and there we were! Perfect. This is the view aft. 

And the view forward…

We sat on deck and watched flocks of swallows and house martins as they swooped and dived, chattering away to each other. The noisiest birds were the starlings, as seemingly thousands of them moved along the bank beside us, eating insects or seed on their journey. A herd of young dairy cows ambled by, some walking down to the water to drink and eat the grasses and leaves growing on the water's edge. Later on, at about 1700 hours, we hopped onboard Pottle and made our way further east towards the town of Garnwerd. Another lovely little spot to make a note of: there's a restaurant there and also a nice looking passentenhaven. A friend told me about a nice walk of about 6 kms to be enjoyed from the village church too. 

Onwards we went in Pottle, and then turned to port into a narrow stream to the little village of Sauwerd. As you enter the little waterway, there's a pretty little brug and sluis to go through. Two hours after setting off, we were back onboard and ready for a glass of wine. It had been fun!

Galley slave prepared sautéed chicken breasts with a stir-fry of rice and vegetables. And later, we had this stunning sunset to enjoy. #nofilter

Tomorrow morning, we make our way onto the Van Starkenborgh Kanal to head south, back onto the Prinses Margriet Kanal and back into Friesland. 
Vxx

The Lauwersmeer: Pottle investigates. A Change of Plans.

This morning we've decided to whizz over to Lauwersoog in Pottle. We want to check out the huge sluis system that locks boats in and out of the Waddenzee and we also want to take a peek at the jachthaven over there. It's hot enough and sunny enough to worry about sunburn; so orders for the day include hats, water and sunscreen plus camera and iPhone. 

It was a glorious trip over to the other side of the Lauwersmeer. Even as Pottle poked her nose out of our little jachthaven, we could smell the salty tang of the sea. When we arrived at the sluis, it was very busy. There were a lot of boats tied to the wachtplaats at the side of the entrance, and a flotilla of boats jilling around in the water, waiting for their turn. A flurry as the sluis opened and boats poured out and headed south. It's a huge sluis but when you're in a little boat like Pottle, it seems absolutely monstrous! We got out of everyones way and headed over the jachthaven. It was busy with a lot of transiting boats of every description, and from many European and Scandinavian ports.

There was quite a smart looking clubhouse or bar/restaurant with a view to the south over the Lauwersmeer. We rather fancied a nice cold fruit juice  and perhaps a snack. The jachthaven was full of yachts and we managed to find a sneaky little spot to park Pottle safely. We clambered ashore - actually, the crew sort of crawled ashore in a rather untidy fashion - and made our way to the restaurant. There didn't appear to be anyone to serve us, so we retraced our steps back to Pottle. Happily, the crew managed to maintain professional standards when getting back into Pottle. So that was a relief. 

Our little expedition had taken a couple of hours and as we were hungry, we headed back to Pirramimma and lunch. Over lunch, we decided to stay another evening. We also decided to take Pottle out again and head south to a little river that winds its way inland through a wildlife sanctuary. 

Off we go. Heading south.

Looking back towards the Waddenzee.

The riverbanks are heavily reeded. Sanctuary indeed for the wildlife.

Quick; hide!

No access to the left but the right takes us...

…to this sweet little haven and an old sluis guarding the village.

Skipper climbed the bank and took pics whilst crew kept Pottle secure.

Looking back to the Lauwersmeer. Pottle and crew are down there somewhere.

So pretty and so friendly. They kept the crew company whilst the skipper explored.

 Our original plan was to cruise to Groningen and spend some time there. However. And backing up a little. Between our June cruise and this one, Richard had ordered some new oil filters for the Kubota engine in the generator. We'd been looking for them in every chandlery we'd been in since we purchased Pirramimma; to no avail. The UK main dealer had sent 3 to us whilst we were in the UK at the beginning of July. And advised us that these were 'definitely' the correct filters. 'No question about it!' Whilst we were in Dokkum, Richard had changed the oil in the generator and also tried to fit one of the aforementioned new oil filters. Only the new, very 'definitely' correct oil filters didn't fit. They were about an inch too large in diameter. 

So we decided to go 'back to source' as it were, and contacted De Boarnstream.  Could they get them for us? Yes, was the answer. They'd have them in the office in by the end of the week. Consequently, we abandoned our trip to Groningen; instead we would continue our cruise along the Reitdiep. But once at the Van Starkenborgh Kanal, we would turn to starboard and slowly make our way south to Jirnsum so Richard could change the filters. Why, you ask? Well, because we were concerned that the filters had never been changed and were overdue. Way overdue. Pirramimma comes first. Simple as that.

Tomorrow morning we will leave for the Reitdiep and will find a wild mooring for the night. Then back into Friesland and another couple of nights at a Marrekrite mooring before returning to Jirnsum in time for the filters to arrive.

Vxx

Cruise to Dokkum Pt 2: Pottle on tour. Dinner with friends. Farewell Dokkum; Hello Lauwersmeer.

The skipper was keen to launch Pottle and tour the inner canal through the middle of Dokkum itself. Crew insisted on waiting till the rain had stopped. These photos were taken between 1900 and 2000 hours one evening - it was warmer than perhaps it looks and a little further along, there were quite a few folk out in their little dinghies enjoying the break in the weather. Unfortunately, the camera on the phone struggled with these shots - either too much motion or looking straight into the sun. Or a combination of both issues. But it's a pretty little town and we like it very much. 

On the final night in Dokkum for this visit, we were delighted Petra and Klaus could join us onboard for dinner. Sheila and Paul joined us for apéros and helped to make it a very enjoyable evening. Lots of laughter and a lot of fun. The galley slave prepared a delicious meal of Lemon and Thyme Chicken, roast potatoes, Spicy Asian Coleslaw and a mixed salad. Dessert of luscious local strawberries, blueberries and raspberries with clotted cream and whipped cream. Coffee with liqueurs, stroopwafels and chocolates rounded the evening off. 

Petra and Klaus had kindly given us a bottle of Beerenburg, made by the local Dokkum distiller, Sonnema. Beerenburg is a Dutch drink made by adding herbs and spices to jenever. It's about 30% proof. The drink apparently originated in Amsterdam (North Holland) but became most popular in Friesland, Groningen and Drenthe. It's related to Italian amaro and Petra told us that it's wonderful alternative in Irish Coffee. Just use the same recipe, substituting Beerenburg for the Irish Whiskey. We're all trying a sample of this delicious drink - I have absolutely no idea what I was laughing at but clearly something amused me! 

The next morning, we were up early and took a walk around the haven to find out which of the water points had space for us as we needed to refill our fresh water tank. Then a final walk around this lovely town and the skipper took the opportunity for some more photos. We said our farewells to Sheila and Paul and hope we will catch up with them before the cruising season is finished for this year. We let go our lines and motored away around the corner to take on water. 

Looking back at 'our' windmill, Zeldenrust…

And the second windmill in Dokkum, just ahead of us…

The crew waits by the water tap…

Taken from same position as one above, but the view to the left…

The clouds disappeared as we let go the lines and motored off to make our way past the two remaining brug in the Dokkum town system and onto the waterway known as the Dokkumer Grootdiep. The open countryside was lovely and completely different to that on the western approaches to the town. Richard commented that it reminded him of the upper reaches of the Thames. The sunshine and warmth made a wonderful change to recent weather. 

We motored happily along this pretty waterway, making our way through two more brug, then locked down into the Willem Lorèsluis. Soon after this, we turned north onto the Dokkum Djip and made our way into the Lauwersmeer. The scenery changed and then changed again. We were entranced.

Our original intention was to make our way to the top of the Lauwersmeer and find a berth in the Lauwersoog jachthaven. However, Paul and Sheila, having heard good reports, mentioned another haven on the western side of the Lauwersmeer and we made our way there instead.  The jachthaven Lauwersmeer at Oostmahoorn is a lovely little place, tranquil and pretty. We found a nice spot on the inside of the passentensteiger, made fast our lines and at 1500 hours, switched off the engine. We'd come just 10.8 miles from Dokkum and entered another world.  We checked ourselves in at the havenkantoor for one night. €15.45 for the berth, tourist tax for 2, and wi-fi. Water, electricity extra. There's a good and spotlessly clean shower block plus the usual rubbish and recycling facilities. The havenkantoor is on a small 'hill' overlooking the jachthaven. It has a small chandlery and access to good mechanics should repairs be needed. There's a bar and restaurant in the same complex. 

Our view aft, soon after arrival at Oostmahoorn…

By the time we'd returned from checking in at the havenkantoor and taking a wander around the jachthaven, the sun had come out again and we sat on deck with a cold glass of water for the crew and a refreshing biertje for the skipper. Skipper caught up with the ship's log and the crew caught up with…  umm… the crew's log.

… and took another photo of Pirramimma…

Meanwhile, the galley slave decided the option of a drink followed by a meal at the restaurant was a better idea than cooking that night. Thus, as the sun slid over the yardarm, we found ourselves seated at an outside table with a view of Pirramimma and the rest of the jachthaven. Crew managed to place the order in Dutch and the waiter, bless him, managed to understand her.

The view from our table. Pirramimma is the dark blue blob in the middle of the picture.

And looking south east…

The name of the restaurant is 'The Riddle of the Sands' and indeed, the Lauwersmeer is not too far away from where the book is set. If you take a fairly large pinch of salt, that is.  Skipper took a photo of the place 'mats' and I'm including it here because it gives you a good look at the area the Lauwersmeer covers. 

We had a lovely meal: sliptongetje for the crew and the skipper enjoyed 'butter fish'. The waiter was unable to tell us what type of fish that was in English but it was delicious. Meaty texture, similar to tuna, but the meat was white and sweet tasting. If anyone knows what it might be in English, I'd be grateful to learn it.

Petra had told us about Dokkumer Koffie and we were unable to resist when the waiter told us it came with this dessert. Honest, we only ordered the dessert because the Dokkumer Koffie was part of it.  *cough*

Two happy and relaxed people wandered back to their boat to sit on the aft deck and enjoy the warm evening. 

Vxx