Summer Cruise 2016: Part 3.

After 36 hours of non-stop cold, drenching rain we'd had enough and were glad to see some sunshine amongst broken clouds on Tuesday morning. We'd spent Monday doing as many indoor chores as we could and were ready to move on.

When Navigator originally planned our summer cruise, one of the places tentatively pencilled in was the island of Texel.  A short hop of about an hour or so cruising from Den Helder on the north western tip of Holland across the Waddenzee, it nevertheless needed a stable weather window to allow us to safely undertake the journey. And not only a stable weather window to get there in the first instance, but another stable weather window to allow us to leave the island. Plus those weather windows needed to be fairly close together so we could return to home base and catch our ferry back home. 

After endlessly watching weather predictions, we came to the sad conclusion that there was absolutely nothing stable about any of the current weather conditions: weather predictions were changing dramatically daily and sometimes half-daily. 

Reluctantly, we decided to head back across the IJsselmeer earlier than intended. Instead we would cruise to Harlingen for a few days before cruising to Franeker and visiting the famous Planetarium there. 

At 0930 hours on Tuesday, we let go our lines and reversed Pirramimma from her berth. Broken clouds eventually dispersed completely, the sun was hot and with a gentle following breeze, we had a super cruise eastwards towards the town of Makkum.  

Leaving Regatta Center at Medemblik   Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

Lovely sunshine and a gentle following sea.  Photo credit:  Veronica Hayes

In the middle of the IJsselmeer with no other boats to be seen   Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

View of Perkie (the Perkins engine) doing its thang!   Photo credit:  Veronica Hayes

We arrived at Makkum Marina with the sun beating down - what a change from yesterday's cold wind and rain! Changeable weather conditions indeed!

And the view to the right from our berth. The waterway leads to Makkum town.
Photo credit:  Veronica Hayes

Marina Makkum is part of a huge holiday complex and draws lots of holiday makers in season thanks in part to an excellent beach facility, swimming pool, restaurants and shops in the complex. Guests at the jachthaven are able to use the swimming pool free of charge too. 

Later in the afternoon, we lowered the dinghy and went for a tour of the jachthaven before heading to the town.  It's a busy little place with more marinas and some boat building yards lining the waterway.  In fact, if you're looking for somewhere to have your luxury super yacht built, then you've come to the right place as Feadships are built here at the De Vries yard. 

By the time we returned to Pirramimma, the sky was clouding over and within 15 or so minutes, heavy rain was falling. The wind picked up during the night and again, we were grateful to be secure in a good marina berth. Happily the rain cleared by the time we were ready to leave Makkum.  We made ourselves and the boat ready to head north to Harlingen. This meant we would be making our way to the massive Lorentz Sluizen (locks) which allow boat traffic to pass through the Afsluitdijk, itself a massive protecting dike which encloses the IJsselmeer, protecting it from the open waters of the Waddenzee. 

We had a short but unpleasantly rough ride to the sluis system with a beam-on and rather nasty sea. It took quite a time to get through the system but eventually we were through and able to start our first voyage on the Waddenzee.

This next photo shows us clearing the swing bridge. The locks and their control tower are at the rear of the pic.  The stream of yachts behind us might give an idea of how busy these locks are.  

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

Pirramimma shows a clean pair of heels as the yachts behind begin to raise their sails...

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

Yet again the weather changed, this time for the better; one and a half hours 
later, the sun was shining as we cruised through the breakwaters at Harlingen harbour entrance. 

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

Friends had recommended we stay on the eastern side of town so we made our way to another lock system, the Tsjerkhiddes Sluizen where again we had quite a wait for our turn to go through. Commercial barges take precedence over leisure craft - and rightly so!

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

Whilst we waited, we watched some of the high speed ferries which take passengers to and from the islands of Terschelling and Vlieland. 

Photo credit:  Veronica Hayes

After clearing through the lock, we had a sharp turn to starboard and through a very narrow entrance (4.8 metre...breathe in!). As we did so, we were hailed by the harbour master who instructed us to pull in and tie up.  Repair work was being carried out on the next bridge and no boat traffic was allowed through. By this time we had temperatures over 30C on deck so it was no particular hardship to wait and enjoy the sunshine. And it was easy to pay our harbour dues for the next three nights. Eventually, the work on the bridge was finished and we joined the convoy of other boats which had also been waiting to continue their journey through this particular bridge. 

Here we are, as we wait in the sunshine for the bridge ahead to be repaired...

… and our view from the aft deck, taken around 1940 hours on our first evening in Harlingen…

We stayed in this spot for two nights before moving around a corner. In total, we stayed four nights in Harlingen and felt very much at home in this busy, vibrant town.  We took the dinghy on several tours. We walked many miles exploring all the little back streets along the inner canals and harbours of the town. I won't bore you with details of those days but perhaps some photos I took as we wandered around or cruised in the dinghy, will give you a flavour of the town.

We enjoyed a lovely, relaxed meal at the ferry terminal restaurant on our final night in Harlingen… just what we wanted: good food and drinks at a very reasonable price, excellent service and a great view of all the ferries coming and going across the Waddenzee. 

Next morning, we bade farewell to our friendly, charming Havenmeester and made our way eastwards to the town of Franeker. By 1130 hours we'd secured our lines. We had a new view and a new town to explore.  In the next photo, Pirramimma can be seen, second boat along on the left side. It looks nice and quiet doesn't it? But by 1900 hours that night, there was not a space left. 

I couldn't resist taking this photo… look at the two skûtsje on either side of the windows…

The boat behind Pirramimma belongs to two lovely folk from Melbourne, Australia and we enjoyed their company over pre-dinner apèros later that evening. 

However, we'd come to Franeker for a very specific reason: to visit the Eisinga Planetarium located in the centre of the town. Here's a link giving an insight into the Planetarium and its history….  http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/eisinga-planetarium  

Quite remarkable and utterly fascinating. And when you've exhausted the exhibition rooms - there are quite a few - then relax in the excellent little cafe courtyard there; it has a very good reputation. We didn't as we were expecting our Australian guests to join us on Pirramimma for evening drinks. Next time!  

Here are some photos I took with my phone that day: some of the buildings around the town and some taken in just one of the exhibition rooms at the Planetarium…

Sadly, the sunshine was gone by next morning and heavy, drenching rain accompanied our new friends as they slowly made their way from the mooring whilst we exchanged good wishes and promises to catch up again.. I hope so!

Fortunately the rain stopped after lunch, and we jumped into the dinghy to visit some more friends who were staying at a boat yard whilst having major work carried out to refit a very old and beautiful barge they'd purchased. Almost from the ground up, so to speak, and still with a lot (masses and masses!) of work to be carried out, they hoped to be able to commence their journey south to the French canals in a month or so. Impressive, to say the least! 

More farewells before we carried on and explored the town a little more. But of course, it was a Monday and most of the businesses and shops were closed for the day.  Still: a reason to return to Franeker and see a little more of this fascinating little town. 

We decided to head to Leeuwarden for a few days so on Tuesday morning, we waved farewell to Franeker, enjoying a leisurely cruise along a pretty waterway towards the capital of Friesland province. We were super lucky and didn't have to wait at any of the brugs into town. Torrential rain kept us onboard that evening and plans for a meal out were cancelled. Next day, we took our tourist selves to the excellent Ceramic Museum in Leeuwarden. Well, again; extraordinary! Fabulous! I loved it but admit that perhaps one visit is either too much or not enough… there is a lot to see.  There's a definite risk of 'Florence syndrome' because everything is so spectacular. If you're in town, do add it to your list of things that are worth the journey to see.  

After an absolutely glorious second evening in town, our plans to visit the excellent fresh produce market on Friday morning were dashed by torrential rain; again.  

Galley Slave decided she had had enough of rain and voted to leave Leeuwarden and to make our way back to our home port.  On the way, we stopped for one night at Pirramimma's birthplace, De Boarnstream at Jirnsum, before carrying on along the Prinses Margriet Kanaal, southwards. The wind picked up as we cruised along, making for a bumpy ride in some places, particularly along the Sneekermeer.  

Just before midday, we pulled into our home berth and secured our lines.  Pirramimma was home.  The circle was closed and our summer cruise had come to an end.  

Before long, we will be returning to Pirramimma once more and will begin another cruise.  Blogging via Blogger is nigh on impossible on just an iPad as many of you will know. Sometime in the future, I'll have to consider buying a macbook or similar. Or move the blog to Wordpress which I don't really want to do.  

However, I promise I will continue to blog when I return home from our cruises. 

Vxx

Summer Cruise 2016: Part 2.

We stayed a total of 2 nights at our berth in the Stavoren Town haven whilst we waited for favourable weather and wind conditions/strength to cross the IJsselmeer to Enkhuizen. Stavoren is a lovely little town; plenty to see, do and enjoy. Though I never did get that ice-cream I 'needed'! 

Finally, early in the morning of Wednesday, 15th June, we let go our lines and moved away towards the sluis gates. Having seen when we arrived that the pleasure craft sluis was closed, Crew was somewhat non-plussed to find we were directed into that sluis rather than the commercial craft sluis. There was only one other boat which followed us into the sluis, so we moved forward and threw our lines onto the excellent bollards. Theoretically, this should be the easiest of the two as the pontoon rises and falls with the water levels in the sluis.  But we had taken the most forward position in the sluis and, unusually, Crew found it to be a bumpy ride at the bow of the ship. There was a sharp turn to starboard from our position as we left the sluis and we found very strong currents trying to push the ship to port.  Fortunately both Skipper and Crew were quick to take evasive action and Pirramimma slid effortlessly out into the IJsselmeer. 

There was quite heavy cloud cover for the crossing to Enkhuizen but no rain and it was surprisingly warm. Crew had the helm for the crossing, with an absolutely perfect angle onto the waves to ensure a smooth crossing. 

Crossing the IJsselmeer to Enkhuizen.  Video snapshot: Richard Hayes.

And now a couple of pics taken as we were approaching Enkhuizen…

We are going to head to port (left) of the land in this pic…  Lots of masts in Compagnieshaven

A view to the Zuiderzee Museum's fantastic working village. More on that later!

Crew had spent a bit of time researching where she wanted to moor in Enkhuizen as there's a choice of two large jachthavens: Compagnieshaven and Buyshaven plus 3 locations run by the town.  Webcam watching had told her that the Buitenhaven, which is town controlled, was the place to be!  She'd even chosen the very spot she wanted… 

Once again, we were delighted the sun began to shine as we moved into the entrance to the town harbour and Crew was ecstatic to see straight ahead of her, The Spot, was available with plenty of space for Pirramimma.

Here we are; parked up in our little spot in Enkhuizen Buitenhaven (outer harbour)…

Even mid-week, the haven was quite busy with boats moored and a lot of activity throughout the day as boats came and went. 

Crew was 'starving' by this time and could smell the enticing, irresistible aromas of freshly cooked kibbeling wafting across the harbour.  We brought our haul of kibbeling back to Pirramimma and sat on the aft deck, enjoying our huge meal as well as warm, beautiful sunshine. A complete treat! 

After lunch, we wandered over the VVV (Tourist Office) and made enquiries about the Zuiderzee museum and other attractions in town.  Then back to Pirramimma to study all the brochures we'd collected. Again back to the VVV to purchase tickets to the Zuiderzee museum, including tickets for the ferry to take us there.  It's only a short walk also but if there's a chance to go via water, then…  Then we took a walk around the "Old Town", the Oude Haven, the Oosterhaven and around the town walls towards Compagnieshaven. Compagnieshaven has a chandlery so that was an irresistible draw for us too. Finally, we walked back into town and towards Pirramimma, stopping on the way to purchase our 'ticket' at the automated gizmo for 3 x nights stay in the Buitenhaven. 

After our huge blowout on kibbeling at lunch and in spite of lots of walking around the town, we were still too full to consider an evening meal so opted for snacks as we settled down for the evening and to watch the boats in the haven. 

Next morning, we woke to glorious, glorious sunshine so sat on deck to enjoy our breakfast. Then off we went to catch the first ferry of the day to the Zuiderzee museum. This was such a memorable day for us and so I'll say it right now: If you EVER get the chance to visit this museum then grab it with both hands. It's fabulous. 

There are two parts to the museum: the recreated old 'working' village and the gallery located in the old stores buildings. Enkhuizen was one of the important towns associated with the VOC, or as we know it, the Dutch East Indies Company. From your history books, you will know and understand how important and wealthy this company was. Many of the buildings at the little working village are original to the site whilst others have been transported from other towns around the Netherlands. But it's possible to visit the Smokehouse and buy freshly smoked haring, or kipper, and eat them whilst sitting in the sunshine. You can visit the Cheese House, sample and buy cheeses there as well as watch a video on the workings of the Cheese House (essentially the fresh cheeses were matured in the house); visit the Sail maker, or the Cooperage where they still practise the highly skilled art of making wooden barrels for whisky etc; visit the building where another skilled craftsman hand makes brooms and brushes for all manner of uses. And so it goes. Fascinating!

Here's the gentleman who was making the brushes. As you can see, you can also purchase these beautifully made pieces...
 

 

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

Looking across the village fields to the fish smokery...

 

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

... where the Crew takes the opportunity to try out the freshly smoked haring. It was lusciously plump and delicious. The best she's ever eaten!

Photo credit: Richard Hayes

Looking back at the Smokery, the pretty old windmill and the dike wall that keeps the village safe from the sea...

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

Making barrels in the Cooperage...
 

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

Here's the Butcher's shop...

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

... and the Cheese House... 

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

There's a wonderful, old fashioned and fully working printers and the gentleman who was working there was kind enough to talk to us about his work and how the printer would have operated in times gone by...

Photo credit: Veronica Hayes

You will also find a steam driven laundry, an artisan sweet shop which had queues of children waiting outside whilst others came out from the shop with their bags of sweets, plus perfectly preserved but now vacant homes you can visit and read about the occupations and lives of their former occupants. And a very busy and clearly popular brasserie to obtain refreshments, a quaint little coffee house by the side of the little canal, a small, working shipyard plus folk making fishing nets too - and much more than I can tell you about here.  

But here are few more scenes from this wonderful village...

 

Crew takes the chance to recover her breath and enjoy a private moment. And she can never resist a chance to swing on a swing!...

Our final scene from the village was this distance shot of a gentleman riding his bicycle with a cart attached, selling his vegetables and other goods...

All in all, we spent about 5 hours in this little museum village and we would both happily return again to savour the sights and learn more about its long past glory days. 

We walked along the main sea wall and headed over to the other part of the Zuiderzee museum, located in several magnificently restored old VOC store houses. This museum took the form of an art gallery with many, many paintings of boats, people and water. On the ground floor is a marvellous collection of restored boats of different sizes and uses - from pleasure craft to working craft.  Then when we'd had enough, we walked back towards Pirramimma and again took the path along the sea wall around to the Buitenhaven. We found an excellent fishmonger on the way: Galley Slave made a note to return and purchase some fresh fish.  Crew also found an artisan icecream shop and made her own notes about that. 

Later that evening, we were treated to a magnificent sky spectacle as a storm built and approached the town. Fortunately, it missed us but Crew managed to take a wonderful sequence of photos as the clouds massed in front of us... here are a few shots of the spectacular clouds formations and light.

Photo credits: Veronica Hayes 

The following day was hot and sunny.  We were looking forward to catching up with the beautiful bride, Willeke and another friend, Corrine, later in the day as they were joining a group of Dutch women to spend the weekend cruising the Waddenzee on a couple of classic barges. 

Crew managed to mess up their arrival times having thought they would be arriving around 1730 hours so we were somewhat under prepared when they arrived around 1530 hours! Ooops - but bless them, they happily joined us onboard for a beer and a coffee. Plus lots of chat and laughter. Thanks to both of them for making the effort to visit us and for ignoring the fact that we were both dressed in boat working clothes. 

Galley Slave decided that she needed to visit the fishmonger and purchased some fabulously fresh sole for dinner that night. It was sweet and delicious. 

Over the next couple of days, we explored more of the town and walked the Vestingwals - the old fortification walls surrounding the town. On Saturday morning, we walked into the shopping area and joined the throngs of people window shopping, buying fresh bread, flowers and sitting in coffee shops whilst relaxing and chatting. 

We'd also been keeping an eye on the weather forecasts and know that on Monday, there will be a particularly nasty patch of weather heading our way. We decided to leave Enkhuizen early on Sunday morning to make our way to the town of Medemblik and the Regatta Center jachthaven where we will hunker down and let the weather pass through. 

Saturday night, the evening before we left, was very busy in all the jachthavens at Enkhuizen and boats were rafted up to each, three and four deep, in all the havens. It was also party night and the town was busy with everyone enjoying another warm summer's evening.

We had two yachts raft up to us but fortunately they both intended to leave at 1000 hours the next morning which would give us a leisurely couple of hours to cruise north to Medemblik.  Crew was cooking a lush pork and aubergine Thai curry which caused both yacht crews to sniff the air appreciatively as they made their way around our forward decks and into town to find somewhere to eat.

Next morning dawned bright and sunny, we waited for the two yachts to move away and then let go our own lines. Skipper slowly cruised us past some other lovely friends who were moored across the haven from us. We waved, said our Goodbyes and exchanged good wishes for onward journeys.

Leaving the harbour entrance, Skipper turned the boat to port before handing over the helm over to Crew.  It was Sunday morning so lots of other boats were also leaving the town and heading onto other destinations.  The weather remained sunny but the wind and waves picked up a little. Pirramimma had the bit between her teeth and we enjoyed a fabulous cruise to Medemblik.

On the way, we were passed by this beautiful passenger ferry as she took her passengers from Enkhuizen to Medemblik. 

Photo credit: Richard Hayes

   

But we made good time to Medemblik and pulled into Regatta Center to request a berth for two nights.  Once we were settled in our space, Crew spent a bit of time eyeing the restaurant and we decided it would be a good place to eat that night. We booked a table for 1930 hours and then made our way into the town centre to explore.  Another interesting, very attractive town and we resolved to return on another occasion to explore it in greater depth.  And next time to moor up in one of the town havens as they all looked so charming. 

But here's our view of Regatta Center from our aft deck, taken soon after we had settled ourselves and the boat into her berth...

Back onboard Pirramimma we made ourselves presentable for our dinner reservation before wandering over to the outside terrace to enjoy a cold beer and glass of wine. 

  
 The menu here at this restaurant is very much Italian/Mediterranean inspired and the food was quite outstanding. Chef definitely knows what he's doing. We opted for seafood for both our starters and main courses. So good!  

Two very happy, very full people wandered back to Pirramimma to enjoy a night cap before retiring for the night. Sadly, neither of us seem to be able to manage to eat three courses - the desserts sounded divine! 

But the weather was changing as the promised nasty weather made its way towards us. The barometer was dropping fast and it was cold on the aft deck. Crew and Skipper indulged in a nip of whisky each before retreating to warmth of the Webasto heating below decks.

Next day, we woke to this...

... and we spent the rest of the day listening to the rain and watching the wind whip the IJsselmeer into an extremely unpleasant place to be. We were extremely grateful to be safe and warm.